Hair Braiding: Styles, Maintenance, and Safety

Written by Alyson Powell Key
Medically Reviewed by Stephanie S. Gardner, MD on April 04, 2025
8 min read

Many people choose braids as their go-to hairstyle because they’re stylish and low maintenance. They also protect your hair from daily styling, breakage, and the elements, such as dry or humid air. 

“If you have braids put in, and they’re not too tight, and you don’t leave them in too long, you can give your hair a bit of a break,” says Dina Strachan, a dermatologist and director of Aglow Dermatology in New York. 

Braids can also show your cultural identity. Hair braiding has deep roots in West Africa, where styles once reflected a person’s tribe, social status, or marital status. Because braiding could take hours, it became a meaningful social act — something shared between family members or offered as a gesture of friendship.

Slavery disrupted these traditions in the U.S., forcing enslaved people to shave their hair, cover it, or follow beauty standards that favored straight, smooth hair over their natural textures. In the 1960s and again in the 2000s, the natural hair movement encouraged people to embrace their natural texture, reviving interest in traditional African styles like braids, locs, cornrows, and afros. Since then, the demand for these styles continues to grow.

Who gets their hair braided?

Millions of people around the world, especially Black women in the U.S. and Africa, wear braids using hair extensions. 

One survey found that 34% of Black women in the U.S. have worn braids using synthetic hair in the past three years. This percentage doesn’t include the many children in the Black community who also wear this hairstyle. The survey also found that synthetic braids are the second most popular hairstyle for Black women ages 18 to 34.

Many people choose synthetic extensions for braiding because they’re less expensive than human hair. In recent years, researchers have been looking into the safety of these hair products. Studies suggest that the chemicals in synthetic extensions could harm your health when you breathe them in or absorb them into your scalp.

Chemicals in synthetic hair or too much tension on the scalp may also cause changes to your face or neck. “The No. 1 thing I see is inflammation — itching, redness, and bumps on the scalp,” says Stephanie Hinkle, a textured hairstylist and certified trichologist (specialist in hair and scalp disorders). “Those chemicals and alkaline plastics are instantly causing irritation.”

What materials are in synthetic hair?

One commonly used material in synthetic braiding hair is modacrylic, a fiber found in brands like Kanekalon. It's popular with braiders because it resembles afro-textured hair and doesn't unravel easily. 

Modacrylic is made from two dangerous chemicals: acrylonitrile and vinyl chloride. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) says acrylonitrile probably causes cancer in humans. And the National Cancer Institute (NCI) has linked vinyl chloride to serious health problems like leukemia and cancers of the liver, brain, and lungs.

Government safety limits for these chemicals in the workplace are extremely low. Using just one full set of braiding hair — usually eight packs — can expose you to levels far beyond these limits. And since it’s common to wear braids for around four to eight weeks and repeatedly get them done, exposure lasts longer. There aren't strong federal rules to protect people from the chemicals found in many popular brands.

Besides cancer-causing chemicals, testing reveals that many popular synthetic hair products contain lead and volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that may harm your nervous system, reproductive health, and immune health. When heated with hot water or a heated styling tool (such as a curling iron) during the sealing process, the hair releases VOCs, which can cause breathing problems and long-term health effects.

This exposure is mainly happening to Black women, who already have high rates of hormone-related disorders, deaths from breast cancer, and uterine diseases. “You have to start looking at the causes,” Strachan says. “Is it stress? Is it genetic? Is it something that we're exposed to? It’s a reasonable concern that maybe people aren’t as careful about what gets marketed to us.”

How to lower hair braiding risks

Companies that make and sell synthetic hair deny health risks. 

To lower your exposure to harmful chemicals in braiding hair, experts suggest you:

  • Take breaks between getting braids done
  • Cleanse synthetic braiding hair before you use it (though there’s no scientific evidence this works)
  • Push for stricter rules and more research on safer products
  • Create a barrier between your scalp and the hair with aloe vera or plant-based oils
  • Use hair made with plant-based or nontoxic materials

To switch up your look or give your hair a break from synthetic extensions, here are some other styles you can try:

Bantu knots. This style started with the Zulu people of Southern Africa. It involves parting, twisting, and forming the hair into small spirals or buns that resemble knots.

Buns. You can wear this simple style as a top knot or low bun. Use moisturizing products and a satin ponytail holder to protect your hair from breakage and keep it healthy.

Twists. Create this style by wrapping two small sections of hair around each other down the entire length of your hair. It lasts for days or weeks and is easy to wash. 

Human hair braiding

Getting braids with human hair as a substitute for synthetic hair is more expensive but gentler on the scalp, lighter in weight, and feels more natural. Human hair also lasts longer, and you can reuse it.

Plant-based hair braiding

Hair made from natural materials is a mid-priced option that may also be gentler on your scalp. It’s breathable and lightweight, creating less tension. But some types of plant-based hair, like hair made with banana fiber, may transfer color and can be trickier for stylists to work with, which means more time at the salon. 

Some options for plant-based hair products include:

  • Banana fiber hair – Lightweight, durable, and mimics natural texture
  • Hemp-based extensions – Strong, breathable, and naturally decomposes (biodegradable)

  • Silk-infused hair – Reduces friction and helps keep in moisture

    The FDA doesn’t require testing to prove that personal care products are “clean,” “pure,” “natural,” or “organic.” And many braiding hair brands marketed as nontoxic don’t list their ingredients.

Braids using human, synthetic, or plant-based hair come in a variety of beautiful styles.

Box braids

These braids start with a knot at the scalp and are parted into box-shaped sections. You can wear them hanging loose or in different styles.

Knotless braids

These box braids start at the root with your natural hair and gradually feed into the hair extension. The styling method causes less pain and tension on the scalp than traditional box braids.

Cornrows

Cornrows are braids that lay neatly in rows close to the scalp, allowing easy access for moisturizing.

Fulani braids

Named after the Fulani people of West Africa, this intricate style features cornrows on the top and sides of your head, with knotless braids in the back and two forward braids just above your ears. 

Faux locs

This style mimics the look of real locs. Your stylist can create them by braiding your natural hair and wrapping extensions around the braids or crocheting locs into your braided hair.

Goddess locs

These locs look like faux locs, but instead of closed ends, the ends are loose and curly.

French braids

This crisscrossing braid starts at the crown of your head and braids down to your scalp, eventually hanging down to the nape of your neck.

The best hairstyle for you depends on your hair’s texture and density. If you have finer hair, experts suggest avoiding styles that are too small or heavy since they can lead to breakage. Instead, try a style like medium-sized knotless braids, which are lighter and gentler on the scalp. 

For people with medium to coarser textures, there’s more flexibility. You can try knotless braids, traditional box braids, twist styles, or even micro braids (though not too tiny) since your strands are generally stronger and can handle a bit more tension and variety.

To keep your hair and scalp healthy while wearing a protective style like braids, here are some tips:

Wash synthetic hair before use. Use a mixture of two parts water to one part apple cider vinegar or white vinegar. Soak the hair for a few hours, rinse it with clean, warm water, and let it air dry.

Don’t braid too tightly. Make sure your stylist doesn’t pull too hard. Tight braids can damage your scalp and hairline and cause hair loss over time.

Use silk or satin at night. Sleeping on a cotton pillowcase can create friction and cause frizz. Instead, sleep on a silk or satin pillowcase, or wear a satin bonnet to protect your style while you rest.

Moisturize your scalp. Use a lightweight serum, oil, or mist.

Keep your hair clean. Clean your scalp regularly with a diluted, sulfate-free shampoo every one to two weeks to avoid dirt, oil, and product buildup.

Pay attention to your scalp. If you have discomfort, tightness, or flaking, these are signs that you may need to remove your braids.

Try a hair cleanse. If you develop an allergic reaction to braids with synthetic hair and don’t wish to remove the hair, an apple cider vinegar cleanse can  “help with the ecosystem of the scalp” and “soothe irritation of the scalp and remove residue from chemicals on the synthetic hair,” Hinkle says.

Braids can be stylish, low-maintenance, and can help protect your hair from damage. Many people who choose to wear braids using synthetic hair do so because it’s affordable and easy to manage. Recent research shows that synthetic braiding hair may have cancer-causing chemicals, lead, and VOCs, which scientists link to serious health problems. Washing synthetic hair before use, taking breaks between getting braids done, looking for safer, plant-based options, and switching to styles without synthetic hair are some ways you can lower your risk of adverse effects from synthetic hair braiding.

How much does braiding hair cost? You can buy a pack of synthetic braiding hair for a few dollars at local beauty supply stores or online retailers.

Is braiding good for your hair? Braids protect hair from daily styling, breakage, and the elements, but if pulled too tightly, they can damage the scalp and hairline.

How long does braided hair last? Braids can last anywhere from four to eight weeks.